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Original Yang Wenjing Wild Consumption Bar

Maybe one day, boys will be as crazy as their girlfriends in the live room of skin care and beauty.

Author I Yang Wenjing

Report I PEdaily in the investment community

Girls who were worried about skin care and beauty makeup 10 years ago never imagined that one day, men around them would get together to discuss which brand mask to put on and which set of skin care products to use.

This scene has become a reality today. In recent years, the exclusive men’s skin care and beauty track has been popular. In the beginning of 2022, Guochao men’s personal care brand "Blue Department" announced the completion of tens of millions of Series A financing, which was led by Meihua Venture Capital, followed by Jiuchuang Capital and Jinhuifeng Capital. Established more than two years ago, Blue Department has obtained three rounds of financing, with investors including Qifu Capital, Magellan Group Gaosaier and Qianhai Luojin Fund.

Interestingly, it was a woman who founded this male consumer brand. Ten years ago, Ding Jie, the founder, overheard two male friends borrowing masks from each other during a camping trip, which showed her the blue ocean of the domestic market for male cosmetics. After some research, Ding Jie established the Blue Department. Aiming at the young consumer groups after 1995, the Blue Department quickly circled several major e-commerce platforms shortly after its establishment, and in the Tmall Double Eleven last year, the turnover in the first hour of sales increased by 50 times year-on-year.

At one time, the consumption power of male groups was ranked at the end by entrepreneurs and investors, especially in the field of cosmetics and personal care with obvious female labels, and there were very few male consumers. However, with the Z-generation boys gradually stepping onto the consumption stage, the anxiety of face value spread to young men, and the makeup and skin care brands of exclusive boys began to enter the public eye.

A set of data shows that the post-90 s and post-95 s have become the main consumers of online male skin care products, accounting for about 60%. In recent years, with the rise of brands such as Li Ran, Blue, Tabula Rasa, and Dear Boyfriend, VCs have also begun to move.

A girl who makes men’s skin care products was voted by VC.

The blue department was born out of a missed business opportunity.

Ten years ago, there was a wave of "other economy" consumption in China. Grasping women’s needs meant seizing business opportunities. During that time, many domestic beauty brands such as Perfect Diary and Hua Xizi were founded one after another, but Ding Jie, who is considering starting a business at this time, missed this wave perfectly.

By chance, Ding Jie and his friends participated in a camping trip in the hinterland of the desert. During the camping trip, they heard two male friends borrowing masks from each other. At that time, cosmetics and skin care products for male consumers were still scarce in China, but the number of boys who already had skin care awareness was increasing. This made Ding Jie smell the potential business opportunities in the field of men’s cosmetics.

With 15 years of experience in e-commerce and traffic management, Ding Jie began to conduct in-depth market research. She found that in the face of the growth and diversification of the demand side, the domestic market for men’s cosmetics still lacks high-quality supply. Some brands have low prices and ignore quality control, which leads to the inability to guarantee the repurchase rate. Some brands even change the packaging directly and sell it to male consumers on the basis of women’s makeup formula, lacking the exclusive supply of men.

In addition, international brands have strict control over profit margins, and most of their men’s makeup products cost several hundred yuan, so there is still room for improvement in cost performance. In the sinking market where the purchase channels of skin care products are relatively simple, young men are more dependent on online shopping.

So, Ding Jie found a breakthrough. In October 2018, Ding Jie officially started the brewing of blue brands, and found team members with experience in leading cosmetics industries such as L ‘Oreal, Huaxizi and Martin. Their goal is very clear-insist on high-quality products that are really suitable for men, and build Blue into a more popular domestic brand of men’s cosmetics.

In March 2019, the "Blue Department", which focuses on men’s cosmetics, was formally established, moving in two directions towards men’s skin care line and men’s makeup product line. Team Ding Jie priced the single blue product below 100 yuan, hoping to reach the young consumers after 1995 and the people in the second, third and below cities through high cost performance.

Ding Jie once mentioned in his speech that the post-70s and post-80s may not develop skin care habits, but the post-90s group has developed skin care habits since childhood, and they are more willing to make independent decisions when they grow up. She is concerned that the market demand has changed and started to migrate to the younger Z generation.

Based on previous e-commerce marketing experience, Ding Jie paid special attention to product packaging design. In addition to forming a unique cool style, the Blue Department also focuses on combining the preferences of the Z generation, launching short video content marketing, and conducting cross-border cooperation with Guoman IP.

Less than a year after its establishment, the repurchase rate of some products of Blue Department in e-commerce channels such as Tmall, JD.COM and Xiaohongshu exceeded 10%, and it received nearly 15 million yuan of angel round financing from Locke Fund. During the period of June 18, 2021, the sales of the whole network of Blue Department exceeded 10 million yuan, and the following month, Qifu Capital was obtained, and the Pre-A round of financing of 10 million yuan of Magellan Group Gaosaier was obtained.

At the beginning of this year, Blue Department announced the completion of tens of millions of A-round financing, which was led by Meihua Venture Capital, followed by Jiuchuang Capital and Jinhuifeng Capital. The rapid entry of VC in a short period of time further proves the potential of men’s skin care and beauty track, but the market brought by "men’s beauty economy" is far more than that.

The rising male economy:

In the future, boyfriends may be crazier than you in grabbing skin care products.

When the anxiety of face value spreads from women to men, boys care for their faces as much as girls after 1980s and 1990s. According to the latest data of Ai Media Consulting, there is not a big gap between male cosmetics consumption level and female cosmetics consumption level in 2021. The average monthly consumption of 23.3% male consumers is between 1,000-2,000 yuan, and that of 25.6% male consumers is between 500-1000 yuan, while the proportion of women with the same consumption level is 22.1% and 33.6% respectively.

In the past two years, many new roles have been born in men’s skin care and cosmetics track. In 2019, the original beauty agency, which focuses on men’s beauty and skin care, and JACB, which provides trend grooming and skin care for Z generation boys, were established one after another. One year later, the popularity of men’s beauty and skin care tracks continued to increase, and brands such as Liran, Blue, Tabula Rasa and Dear Boyfriend entered the market, and they successively obtained financing soon after their establishment.

Among them, men’s comprehensive personal care brand has completed six rounds of financing more than a year after it was officially launched. The largest round of the disclosed amount was the B+ round of financing of nearly 300 million yuan in April, 2021, which was led by Tiger Global, with bilibili as the strategic investor, and the old shareholders Wuyuan Capital, Red Dot China and SIG followed suit in excess. In the previous rounds of financing, there were also many well-known institutions.

At the same time, the financing was announced by Tabula Rasa, a men’s fashion makeup brand, which won the angel round financing of China at the speed of light and Huaying Kaitai with millions of dollars. Tabula Rasa was founded in 2020. Founder and CEO Yi Zheng is a VIP and art collector of many luxury brands. In his early years, he worked hard in the financial investment banking industry. Under his leadership, Tabula Rasa was launched only a few months ago, and the monthly growth rate of sales exceeded 100%.

In addition, DearBoyFriend, a men’s grooming brand, also received tens of millions of RMB Series A financing from Black Ant Capital, Jinding Capital, Jinshajiang Venture Capital and Huachuang Capital in March 2021. This is the first self-owned consumer brand hatched by Zanyi and Jinshajiang Venture Capital in early 2020. One year later, DearBoyFriend’s monthly sales exceeded 10 million, and male buyers accounted for more than 90%.

For a long time, men have been ranked at the end of the consumer group, and the traditional investment value is compared with "men are not as good as dogs". However, with the younger generation of male consumers having a certain economic strength, the demand for male consumption has rapidly emerged and is constantly showing a diversified trend. Like the blue department, emotional factors such as game co-branding and trend packaging gradually enter the product elements.

A VC who focuses on the consumption track once said that boys are actually willing to spend money and are willing to spend a lot of money, but the money will be placed in a specific category with less explicit; On the other hand, men pay more attention to quality and practicality when buying, so their decision-making is relatively rational and the frequency of repurchase is relatively high. But this label has also changed at present, and these changes are the key to embracing the future.

Among them, the most obvious thing is that men’s appearance anxiety is magnified on social media, and they are willing to spend money on their faces like girls, thus giving birth to more and more male beauty and skin care brands. In the Double Eleven in 2021, Tmall data showed that the growth rate of men’s make-up in Z generation has reached 122%, and the growth rate of men’s skin care is 82%.

Vilen, a partner of Wuyuan Capital, once mentioned that "the demand of a new generation of male consumers for beauty image continues to evolve, and the cognition and creation of personal image need new product brands in new crowds and social scenes." The consumption habits of Z generation men have broken the traditional thinking. Maybe one day, boys will be as crazy as their girlfriends in the live room of skin care and beauty.

Original title: "When the boys put on the mask, VC came"

Recently, in accordance with the requirements of the educational activities on the theme of "Do not forget your initiative mind, Keep in mind the mission", the main responsible comrades of the Law and Regulation Department led a team of four people to form a research group to carry out special investigations on the supervision of grassroots markets in Hanzhong City and Ankang City, Shaanxi Province. The investigation is now reported as follows:

First, investigate the basic situation

In order to fully understand the establishment and operation of grass-roots market supervision institutions, the research team held forums in Hanzhong City and Ankang City respectively by combining discussion and investigation, and had discussions and exchanges with more than 30 directors of market supervision institutions and responsible comrades of legal institutions of grass-roots market supervision departments; He also visited three city and township market supervision offices to carry out field research, listened to the opinions and suggestions of grassroots comrades on the legal orientation and functional orientation of market supervision offices, and learned about the law enforcement and rule of law construction of grassroots market supervision.

Second, the situation of grassroots market supervision institutions in Shaanxi Province

The research team learned that after the reform of the market supervision system was initiated in Shaanxi Province in 2015, according to the requirements of the documents of the provincial party committee and the provincial government, market supervision bureaus were established in all counties and districts, which integrated the responsibilities of industry and commerce, quality inspection, salt affairs and food and drug supervision departments. There were different forms of market supervision institutions at the township level. In some areas, industrial and commercial offices and township food and drug supervision offices managed by districts were still retained, and in some areas, market supervision offices were established by "merging into one". Some market supervision offices are still dispatched by county bureaus, and some have been managed by township governments.

Hanzhong, visited by the survey, has a total area of 27,200 square kilometers and a permanent population of 3.86 million. After the institutional reform in 2015, 11 counties and districts in the city successively established county-level market supervision administrations (with the brand of Food and Drug Administration). In February 2019, the original functions of industry and commerce, quality supervision, food and drug supervision, salt affairs, price supervision and intellectual property rights, and cracking down on counterfeit and shoddy goods were integrated at the municipal level, and the Hanzhong Municipal Market Supervision Bureau was established. The 11 county and district market supervision bureaus were basically reformed before the end of June. At present, there are 178 market supervision offices (with food and drug supervision offices) in the city. Except for 52 offices in Chenggu and Lueyang counties, the remaining 126 offices have been placed under the management of towns (street offices). There are 2590 people in the city’s market supervision system, including 1154 people in the market supervision office.

Ankang, visited by the survey, has a total area of 23,500 square kilometers and a permanent population of 2,668,900. In January 2019, the original functions of industry and commerce, quality supervision, food and drug supervision, salt affairs, price supervision and intellectual property rights were integrated at the municipal level, and the Ankang Municipal Market Supervision Bureau was established. There are 11 county and district market supervision administrations and 138 township market supervision offices in the city. Except for 4 agencies in Hanbin District, which are dispatched by Hanbin District Market Supervision Bureau, the rest have been placed under the management of towns (street offices). There are 1520 market supervision departments in the city, including 694 market supervision offices.

Third, the problems found in the investigation

(A) the grass-roots market supervision and law enforcement power is seriously inadequate.

After the institutional reform, the supervision and law enforcement power of the market supervision office has not been effectively supplemented according to the requirements of the transfer of functions and the follow-up of people, resulting in a serious mismatch between the supervision power and the supervision function, the law enforcement is not in place, and the supervision function is empty, which has brought great risks and hidden dangers. The main manifestations are as follows: First, there is a serious mismatch between the regulatory power and the regulatory function. Before the institutional reform, the former Quality Supervision Bureau, Salt Bureau, Price Supervision Bureau, Intellectual Property Department and other departments did not have offices at the grassroots level. At present, most market supervision offices are established after the integration of the former industrial and commercial and food and drug supervision offices, and their functions include administrative licensing matters such as issuing certificates and licenses, and full-scale supervision of the former industrial and commercial, quality supervision, food and drug, price, etc., as well as various market inspections, special rectification, consumer complaints, law enforcement inspections, statistical reports and so on. However, at the same time, law enforcement personnel have not been supplemented accordingly. Many supervision institutions only have 2 to 4 people, and receive 2 to 3 documents issued by superiors every day on average, which makes some supervision work become a mere formality, focusing only on work marks and not on actual work. Coupled with the continuous and strict accountability, law enforcement officers in some places have a fear of being unwilling and afraid to enforce the law. The absence of grass-roots supervision power also leads to a large backlog of work in the county bureau, which affects the performance of the county bureau’s work responsibilities. Second, the professionalism of grassroots supervisors needs to be improved. There is a general lack of professional knowledge and technical personnel in the fields of food and medicine, medical equipment, special equipment, standard measurement, etc., and it is difficult to deal with slightly complicated cases. It is often the case that the documents issued by the county and district bureaus to the town (street office) are not implemented.The person who receives the document does not know the business, and the person who knows the business is not on the job or has been going to the countryside for a long time.

(2) The phenomenon of brain drain and deviation from the main business is serious.

Comrades at the grassroots level generally reported that after the market supervision office was placed under the management of the town (street office), the focus of work shifted, and even the government decrees were not smooth, and some important supervision tasks could not be implemented, which further weakened the market supervision and law enforcement force that was already in serious shortage, and the grassroots supervision ability declined, and the "last mile" of market supervision was neglected. First, after some town (street office) market supervision offices were placed under the management of town offices, market supervision personnel, especially young effective forces and professional law enforcement backbones, were transferred or misappropriated to complete government work, resulting in a serious loss. Some supervisors come from other departments of the town (office) government, have no law enforcement experience and qualification, and can only engage in law enforcement work in the name of others, which poses great legal risks. According to statistics, as of the end of 2018, among the 288 township (street office) market supervision offices in Hanzhong City, only 45% were on the job. Second, the market supervision office has to accept various tasks assigned by the town (street office). In addition to undertaking normal market supervision work, it is also engaged in a large number of town (office) work, including securing villages, demolition, creating health facilities, assisting in handling letters and visits, banning straw burning, flood control, environmental protection, etc. The focus of work is mainly on township work, and in some areas, township work even accounts for 80% of grass-roots work, and the directors of some township offices also serve as poor villages. For example, a township market supervision office in Ankang visited by the research team has only two offices, and there is an administrative license acceptance window in the government service hall, with only one cadre on duty.It is simply impossible to undertake heavy market supervision and law enforcement work.

The research team learned that individual market supervision offices, which are still dispatched by county-level market supervision departments, are facing serious pressures and problems after institutional reform, but due to the relatively stable law enforcement personnel, clear supervision responsibilities, smooth uploading and distribution, and good implementation of grassroots tasks, market supervision work has been carried out in an orderly manner in the past year.

(3) The number of law enforcement cases dropped sharply.

The research team learned that the number of law enforcement cases handled by the market supervision institute has dropped significantly, and even zero cases have been handled every year, exposing a large number of regulatory risks and hidden dangers. According to statistics, the number of law enforcement cases handled by most market supervision offices in transferred towns (street offices) has decreased by about half compared with that before 2015, and in some areas it is less than one-third before the transfer. For example, in Hanzhong City, before 2015, the town (street office) supervision office, as the dispatched office of the county bureau, was basically able to focus on supervision, and the supervision and law enforcement were in place. In 2015, various management offices investigated and handled 798 cases of various types, which declined year by year after being transferred to the town (street office) management, and only 200 cases were handled by most supervision offices in 2018. In the first half of this year, after the functional integration, the number of food and drug illegal cases investigated and handled also decreased by 43% compared with the same period last year.

(four) the identity of law enforcement personnel is different, and the people’s hearts are unstable.

Most of the supervision offices managed by towns (street offices) are public institutions, and the staffing of law enforcement personnel in the offices is different. The former industrial and commercial law enforcement personnel are mostly administrative, while the food and drug law enforcement personnel are basically career-oriented. In addition, some quality supervision law enforcement personnel are prepared for the public service, and a large number of law enforcement tasks such as price and salt affairs are diligent. After the combination, there are few administrative personnel and many career-oriented personnel, especially those who are diligent, accounting for a large proportion. Due to the different identities of personnel, especially the establishment of some self-supporting undertakings, the employees are paid differently for equal work, which greatly affects the enthusiasm of grassroots personnel in law enforcement and case handling.

(E) inadequate protection has affected the effectiveness of supervision and law enforcement.

Grassroots comrades reported that many market supervision offices, especially those under the management of towns (street offices), are seriously short of office funds. There is a big gap between the office space of some supervision offices and the requirements for standardized construction of grassroots supervision offices issued by the General Administration. However, in some areas, staffing, vehicle establishment, and law enforcement fund guarantee are not allocated according to the standards of administrative law enforcement units, but related resources are allocated according to management units, so the gap between law enforcement work guarantee and work needs is extremely large, and the construction of law enforcement teams is seriously lagging behind. For example, there are 8 state-level poverty-stricken counties in 11 counties in Hanzhong City, with poor economic foundation, and a large gap in law enforcement funds, law enforcement vehicles, law enforcement recorders, rapid inspection and testing equipment, which cannot meet the needs of supervision and law enforcement, seriously restricting the improvement of supervision efficiency.

Fourth, thinking and suggestions

(A) Analysis of the legal orientation and functional orientation of the market supervision office

According to the spirit of the central document, the Plan for Deepening the Reform of the Party and State Institutions adopted at the Third Plenary Session of the 19th Central Committee in communist party, China stipulates that "the law enforcement responsibilities and teams of industry and commerce, quality inspection, food, medicines, prices, trademarks and patents should be integrated to form a comprehensive law enforcement team for market supervision. Guided by the State Administration of Market Supervision. Encourage local governments to integrate other law enforcement teams that go directly to the market and enter enterprises, face the grassroots and face the people, such as business law enforcement and salt law enforcement, into the comprehensive law enforcement team of market supervision. " The Guiding Opinions on Deepening the Reform of Comprehensive Administrative Law Enforcement of Market Supervision issued by the General Offices of the General Office of the Central Committee of the CPC and the State Council on November 26, 2018 pointed out that "integrate the strength and resources of stations in towns (streets) in the field of market supervision, set up a unified comprehensive administrative law enforcement team for market supervision, be responsible for basic supervision, and exercise the power of administrative punishment according to law. As an agency of the county (city, district) market supervision bureau, the county (city, district) market supervision bureau will take charge of it. To make provisions on the functional orientation and work affiliation of the comprehensive law enforcement team of market supervision.

According to the provisions of laws and regulations, according to the relevant provisions of the Administrative Licensing Law and the Administrative Punishment Law, for example, the market supervision office, as an agency of the county-level market supervision department, can directly exercise the market supervision function according to law. If the market supervision office is placed under the management of the town (street office), there are three ways to realize the statutory authority. First, it is authorized by laws and administrative regulations; Second, with the approval of the State Council, the people’s governments of provinces, autonomous regions and municipalities directly under the Central Government decide an administrative organ to exercise the administrative licensing power of the relevant administrative organs; The State Council or the people’s governments of provinces, autonomous regions and municipalities directly under the Central Government authorized by the State Council decide that an administrative organ shall exercise the administrative punishment power of the relevant administrative organs; Third, it is entrusted by the county-level market supervision department to exercise its functions and powers (administrative license can be entrusted to other administrative organs, and administrative punishment can be entrusted to legally established institutions that manage public affairs). At present, most transfer offices in Shaanxi adopt the third way. As a public institution, they are entrusted by the county market supervision bureau to exercise part of their functions and powers, and the county market supervision bureau bears legal responsibility for the consequences of their actions, resulting in a mismatch between rights and responsibilities to a certain extent.

Judging from the practice of law enforcement at the grass-roots level, the southern part of Shaanxi Province, which was investigated this time, was mainly transferred to market supervision offices managed by towns (street offices). These market supervision offices generally deviated from the main business of supervision, weak law enforcement power and insufficient professional ability, which had a great impact on law enforcement and case handling. The career development of market supervision cadres also faced many uncertainties, which affected the development of market supervision and law enforcement and the maintenance of market order to a certain extent.

(B) Suggestions on further strengthening the construction of grass-roots market supervision institutions

The market supervision department undertakes the daily supervision and administrative law enforcement functions in the fields of industry and commerce, quality inspection, food, medicine, price and intellectual property rights, and is equivalent to the "police" in the economic field. Whether the market supervision responsibility can be fulfilled in place is directly related to the well-being of the people. Grass-roots market supervision institutions are the tentacles and nerve endings of market supervision departments, and whether their functions can be fully exerted directly affects the performance of market supervision functions. Comrades at the grassroots level reported that the law enforcement power of the county market supervision bureau is relatively weak, and the law enforcement field in the jurisdiction is wide and the jurisdiction area is large, so it is impossible to achieve comprehensive and effective supervision, especially in the areas where food, drugs and special equipment are supervised in the whole process. Extending to the grassroots level with the help of dispatched agencies is an important means to improve the supervision efficiency. Grassroots people also generally believe that it is necessary to set up a market supervision office around them, so that the people can feel more at ease, at ease and at ease, which is conducive to timely accepting and solving complaints and reports from the masses, discovering problems in the market, protecting consumers’ rights and interests, and safeguarding the vital interests of the people. Therefore, it is suggested to further consolidate and strengthen the power of grassroots market supervision institutions. First, further research and demonstration should be carried out to identify the difficulties and pain points in the work of grass-roots market regulators, find out the root causes of the problems and study effective solutions. Second, combined with the problems found in the investigation, in accordance with the instructions of the leaders of the General Administration, clarify the legal position of the market supervision office, refine its work responsibilities, actively coordinate with the legislature, promote the formulation of the Regulations on Market Supervision Office, solidify it at the administrative regulations level, and promote the work of the market supervision office to get on the right track as soon as possible. Third, strengthen basic infrastructure,Enrich the grassroots market supervision and law enforcement team, increase training, accelerate the cultivation of specialized market supervision and law enforcement cadres, strengthen the funding and hardware guarantee of grassroots market supervision institutions, and improve the level of informationization.